{"id":8570,"date":"2025-06-05T17:11:20","date_gmt":"2025-06-05T17:11:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/nationalgunowner.org\/index.php\/2025\/06\/05\/london-restaurants-lead-dining-trolley-revival-the-return-of-trolleys\/"},"modified":"2025-06-05T17:11:28","modified_gmt":"2025-06-05T17:11:28","slug":"london-restaurants-lead-dining-trolley-revival-the-return-of-trolleys","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/nationalgunowner.org\/index.php\/2025\/06\/05\/london-restaurants-lead-dining-trolley-revival-the-return-of-trolleys\/","title":{"rendered":"London Restaurants Lead Dining Trolley Revival: The Return of Trolleys"},"content":{"rendered":"
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The beef tartare trolley at Maison Francois. Courtesy Steven Joyce.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Everyone sitting in <\/span>Maison Fran\u00e7ois<\/span><\/a> watches as our server dollops heaping spoonfuls of chopped cornichon and diced red onion into a large bowl of raw beef. The contemporary French restaurant\u2019s tartare de boeuf trolley has become rather well-known in London, serving the classic dish with customizable flair beside the table rather than simply bringing it out from the kitchen. More salt, more hot sauce, an extra helping of capers\u2014it\u2019s all part of the event. As is watching the meal be made by a friendly server who explains the process as he goes. It\u2019s no wonder the surrounding guests are staring with evident jealousy, whispering in hushed tones, as he places the completed tartare on the table.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Maison Fran\u00e7ois\u2019 trolleys are part of a growing trend among London restaurants<\/a>. Requisite champagne and cheese trolleys have given way to creative new means of serving starters, entrees and desserts right next to the table, from ice cream sundaes to smoked salmon to tiramisu. There\u2019s something wonderfully nostalgic about the style of service, but it also offers a sense of added value that\u2019s in high demand with the rising cost of dining out.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

For Maison Fran\u00e7ois, it\u2019s a nod to the past with a modern approach. \u201cBeing in St. James, we wanted to respect the traditions of where we are,\u201d the restaurant\u2019s founder, Fran\u00e7ois O\u2019Neill, tells Observer. \u201cIt\u2019s in the epicenter of club land, which was renowned for these kinds of carving trolleys. We started with the [dessert] trolley, and once we saw the success of what it offered, we started to evolve more ideas in terms of how to create trolley service.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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It\u2019s an immersive experience. Courtesy Steven Joyce<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Trolleys aren\u2019t new to London\u2014in fact, they have a long history in the English capital. <\/span>Simpson\u2019s in the Strand<\/span><\/a>, which opened in 1828 and will relaunch this fall under the ownership of Jeremy King<\/a>, became well known for its carvery trolleys beginning in 1848. <\/span>The Connaught Bar<\/span><\/a> is famous for its martini trolley, which allows guests to build their own flavor profile with a choice of handmade bitters. Although some historic spots have continued the tradition of trolleys, they have fallen out of favor in recent decades, perhaps because diners have been looking for more modern approaches. Now, however, restaurateurs and chefs are hoping to revive tradition, encouraging the resurgence.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Game Bird<\/span><\/a>, located in the Stafford Hotel, currently has six different bespoke trolleys made by Rewthink, which have slowly been added since the restaurant\u2019s relaunch in 2017. The trolleys serve champagne, a smoked salmon starter, beef Wellington, roast beef and cr\u00eapes suzette during lunch and dinner, and there\u2019s a separate trolley used for pastries during afternoon tea.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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The Game Bird. Courtesy The Stafford<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cIt gives the sense of old school service,\u201d explains Luca Gaeta<\/a>, ma\u00eetre d\u2019 at The Stafford. \u201cIt opens the interaction with the guest and it gives them the feeling of being well looked after in a smart, elegant way. We start with the champagne trolley as a way to approach the table and to introduce ourselves and open a conversation with the guest. We can create a bond with the customers using the different trolleys.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The highlight of the service is the smoked salmon trolley, an appetizer that showcases three varieties of smoked salmon from London purveyor H. Forman & Son. Each is carved tableside and presented alongside cr\u00e8me fra\u00eeche, diced eggs and Irish soda bread. It\u2019s been part of the restaurant\u2019s menu since The Game Bird relaunched, demonstrating their emphasis on English products. It\u2019s also purposefully distinct. \u201cKnowing all the business around London and traveling around, we never saw anything like that,\u201d Gaeta notes. \u201cIt\u2019s still our most popular trolley.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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The Salad Trolley at the Dorchester. Courtesy Dorchester Collection<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At The Dorchester, trolleys have long been part of the DNA of its central restaurant, <\/span>The Promenade<\/span><\/a>. According to culinary director Martyn Nail<\/a>, at least one trolley has been used since the hotel opened in 1931. Today, there are multiple, including trolleys that serve steak Diane and cr\u00eapes suzette. For Nail, the service brings \u201ca sense of occasion.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s showmanship, yes, but also skill and connection,\u201d he says. As the chef, he needs to trust the servers to execute the dishes \u201cwith finesse.\u201d Nail emphasizes that there is a \u201ccrucial\u201d level of collaboration. \u201cFrom the moment the trolley arrives, it sets the tone: anticipation builds [and] the room buzzes,\u201d he says. \u201cYou\u2019re not just served dinner; you\u2019re part of it.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

This sense of collaboration and showmanship is also evident at newer restaurants. <\/span>45 Jermyn Street<\/span><\/a>, owned by luxury shop Fortnum & Mason, has three trolleys that rotate during lunch and dinner service, offering caviar, beef Wellington and lobster spaghetti. There\u2019s a theatrical element to each, and the gas burners on the trolleys allow the servers to flamb\u00e9 the spaghetti and the Wellington\u2019s peppercorn sauce at the table. \u201cIt\u2019s almost like an open kitchen,\u201d explains executive chef Sam White<\/a>. \u201cPeople like to see a bit of fire, and they like to see their food being cooked \u00e0 la minute.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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The pasta trolley at 45 Jermyn Street. Courtesy 45 Jermyn Street<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On a busy night, the restaurant serves around 30 beef Wellingtons. That dish is slightly easier to serve than the spaghetti, which is almost fully cooked tableside. Both were developed for the menu because they could be flamb\u00e9ed. The tables are specifically spaced to ensure safety for the surrounding diners. When I dined, the spaghetti presentation, which lasts upwards of 10 minutes, created a genuine spectacle.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cAs soon as you sell one, the tickets will start coming in,\u201d White notes. \u201cWe\u2019re constantly looking at what we can do as trolley service and different trolleys: Do we pimp up the trolleys we\u2019ve got, or do we need a new trolley to execute that?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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The caviar trolley is unapologetically decadent. Courtesy Laura Jalbert<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The caviar trolley is appropriately decadent. It offers the choice of three types of caviar, priced by the gram. The scale is the same type used to weigh diamonds. Instead of simply plating the caviar, the server cooks scrambled eggs on the trolley and then serves the caviar with the eggs, new potatoes and traditional blinis. On an average day, the caviar trolley is ordered 10 to 15 times over lunch and dinner, per White. The caviar types run between \u00a32.50 and \u00a39.50 per gram, with a minimum of 10 grams per table. \u201cIt was to make caviar accessible,\u201d he notes. \u201cIt\u2019s an affordable luxury, and it\u2019s the sort of thing you might share for the table.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

At <\/span>Il Pampero<\/span><\/a> in The Hari, it\u2019s the tiramisu trolley, launched in 2023, that creates the biggest spectacle. It\u2019s a theatrical experience and plays to the impatient diner. \u201cSometimes you want to have dessert, but you don\u2019t want to wait too long,\u201d the restaurant\u2019s general manager, Francesco Sardelli<\/a>,\u00a0 explains. \u201cBecause it\u2019s done in front of you, you don\u2019t realize the time is going [by]. It\u2019s psychological, but it\u2019s also making the experience memorable.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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Il Pampero\u2019s tiramisu trolley. Daniel Ogulewicz<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When you order the tiramisu, the requisite lady fingers are carefully plated and soaked on the spot in freshly-made coffee before being doused with a selection of Disaronno, Frangelico or Borghetti and topped with mascarpone cream and cocoa powder. \u201cWe know everyone has individual preferences,\u201d Sardelli says. \u201cNot everyone wants the liquor on their tiramisu. By serving it this way, we can tailor it to everyone\u2019s needs at the table.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Customization is an added bonus of the trolley experience. At <\/span>Alfie\u2019s<\/span><\/a>, a recently-opened British restaurant inside Belgravia pub The Alfred Tennyson, Hereford beef tartare is seasoned to your liking before it is mixed together, with the option to add truffle or caviar. The server offers the guests a spoonful to taste before plating to ensure its flavors are balanced to your palate. Heston Blumenthal<\/a>\u2019s <\/span>Dinner by Heston<\/span><\/a> has featured a liquid nitrogen ice cream trolley since 2011, emphasizing both spectacle and customization.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Dinner by Heston Blumenthal\u2019s ice cream trolley. Courtesy Dinner by Heston Blumenthal<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Similarly, at <\/span>Dovetale<\/span><\/a>, diners can create their own ice cream sundae via the restaurant\u2019s Knickerbocker glory cart. The elaborate trolley, conceptualized by Tom Sellers<\/a> and Seymourpowell, pays homage to the traditional dessert, which is believed to have originated at the Knickerbocker Hotel in New York City. Dovetale\u2019s pastry chef, Thanos Linardakis<\/a>, likes that it gives guests a \u201cpersonal connection\u201d to the dining experience, as they can mix and match flavors, toppings and textures to create their own concoction.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

At <\/span>H\u00e9l\u00e8ne Darroze at The Connaught<\/span><\/a>, guests can conclude the meal with the restaurant\u2019s signature baba, served with Armagnac instead of the usual rum. It\u2019s been on the menu for almost 17 years, and Darroze\u2019s brother produces the vintage Bas-Armagnacs used in the dessert. \u201cWhen a guest orders the baba, we want to bring energy and excitement to the table,\u201d explains Kirk Whittle<\/a>, executive pastry chef for the H\u00e9l\u00e8ne Darroze group<\/a>. \u201cChoosing their preferred vintage to be poured over the baba is a special moment of inclusion and engagement.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

For those who order the dessert, service begins with the arrival of the Champagne trolley and comes full circle with the Armagnac trolley.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Cinnamon Bazaar\u2019s vibrant chaat cart. Courtesy Cinnamon Bazaar<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Not all of the trolleys in London are about a luxury experience\u2014the same kind of customization and interaction is possible on a more accessible level. At chef Vivek Singh<\/a>\u2019s <\/span>Cinnamon Bazaar<\/span><\/a>, the chaat cart has been a favorite with diners since 2016<\/a>. The custom carts, which have a special tank for ice, are based on Indian street food and were painted for the restaurants by Diane Hill<\/a>. For Singh, the carts are \u201cconvivial and democratic.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt creates this action in a dining room, which can otherwise be quite stoic,\u201d Singh says. \u201cEverybody carries plates of food in and puts them down solemnly and runs away. A trolley, or in our case, a chaat cart, breaks down that barrier and brings us closer to the guests. The guests feel special because they are being seen.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

The rapidly growing London restaurant scene means chefs have to do more to ensure diners want to spend money. Singh has noticed people are eating out less as prices have risen. Instead, they save their hard-earned cash for a special occasion, which restaurants have had to embrace. \u201cWhen they do go out, they want to have this experience that is more special than the last time they dined out,\u201d he says. \u201cI think trolleys, whether it\u2019s flamb\u00e9ing, mixing drinks or, in our case, assembling a chaat, give people experiences they don\u2019t have every day.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

At Maison Fran\u00e7ois, O\u2019Neill is always looking for new ways to augment that experience, whether it\u2019s pouring glasses of wine from impressive magnum bottles or mixing up a Caesar salad tableside. There\u2019s \u201calways room for more\u201d among the restaurant\u2019s five trolleys.<\/span><\/p>\n

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The Maison Fran\u00e7ois dessert trolley. Courtesy Steven Joyce<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s a great tool to get people in the mood and create the atmosphere that makes restaurants special,\u201d he says. \u201cCustomers are becoming more discerning, so restaurants are becoming more competitive. And there\u2019s a consistency to that old-fashioned style of dining that will never die because it emphasizes those special occasions that can happen in a restaurant. We offer the spectacle and glamour we associate with going out, when we\u2019re lucky enough to go out.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

In that way, a trolley doesn\u2019t just carry a dish or a bottle of Champagne; it brings nostalgia, whimsy and a sense of fun along with it. As more and more London restaurants take part in the whimsical trend, it assures diners that there\u2019s more to eating out than just eating\u2014it can be an event, too.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\t\t\t\t\"London\u2019s<\/p><\/div>\n